My Truk Odyssey - by Lisa Mucha

In August 2012, PATRIOT SCUBA's Miko Chavchavadze lead a trip to Truk Lagoon aboard the Truk Odyssey

"I have to admit, on the plane ride over to Chuuk, I wasn't fazed by the extensive time I spent either in the air or in random airports, as the long awaited opportunity of a life time had finally arrived. The anticipation outweighed the restlessness. When we finally landed in Guam at some ballistic hour of the morning and the airport was like a ghost town and I don’t think anyone minded because it was apparent everyone was tired. Eventually the short flight took off for Chuuk and we were on our way.

Once we landed in Chuuk, we were directed towards customs. I watched the locals gather together as we proceeded to go through customs, thinking to myself, how fortunate I was to be living the life I was living, in more ways than one. We were then quickly greeted at the airport by the boat captain, Nelson, and a few other staff. I’m not quite sure who because it was dark and there was a decent amount of locals standing around, who had just returned from Guam with coolers of food. Shortly then thereafter, we were aboard the bus and being driven through the impoverished streets of downtown Chuuk, if you could call it that. I'm not quite sure I would call it a road upon, which we traveled, but the driver was quite entertaining with his stories of the history of the island.

When we finally arrive at the Blue Lagoon resort, it was still hard to determine what we were about to experience, as the sun had long set. We were walking down this narrow path, through the palm trees to a small awaiting boat. Once we all climbed into the small craft in the dark of the night, the anticipation began to build as we could see the Odyssey in the distance lit up like a fortress perched upon the calm water. After everyone was aboard, paperwork was completed, and drink of choice was selected, everyone retired for the night.

I’m convinced I was the first person up that morning, and it had nothing to do with being on Eastern Standard Time. I woke up around 0530 and pulled back the curtain only to discover all was still black. The next hour seemed like a lifetime for me, but finally the sun came up and I ran up on deck for coffee. I hadn’t even considered breakfast until it became apparent we would be served breakfast made to order every morning by Tarsy and Poorly, the two crew who did all the cooking. Three meals a day and two snacks in between. The biggest commotion over snacks was when we were served fresh sushi, as John, Miko, Constance and I would race up to the dining room trying to beat everyone there. The food was fabulous! Maybe because it was made fresh every meal? Maybe it was because someone else was making it? Or maybe just because everything was made with care and tasted great.

After breakfast every morning we had our first dive brief, which was either given by Nelson, the boat Captain; or Todd, an instructor. They were incredibly informative, as it was almost like sitting in a history class. But I honestly have to say, not only did I learn so much about the wrecks I was going to dive, but also a few tips as to giving a dive brief. They were amazing. I can also say I was never board listening to anything said during the briefs either, as there was a plethora of information provided on every wreck we were diving. It almost sounded as if they had memorized the actual book of the Truk Lagoon history.

Then the time finally came………..the first dive! I couldn’t get off the boat fast enough and honestly? It didn’t matter who I dove with, I just wanted to get in the water. Oh the water! It was like bath water, even at almost 130 feet, it was still 85 degrees. The visibility was less than I had anticipated, but that did not faze me one bit, as we began our descent down to the first ship. Each dive was a lead dive by one of the crew members, which was fine by me, because I knew they would take us exactly where we wanted to go. As we slowly moved across the water, the only sound you could hear was our bubbles. Then there it was, the Kiyosumi, a passenger cargo ship. At that very moment I realized, everything I had read and all the research I had done and all the pictures I had looked at finally became reality for me. What was once a vibrant vessel was now a peaceful resting place, which had come to life in a different way. It was full of sea life, and vibrant colors, with something moving over every inch as I slowly moved around the stern. Initially, I couldn’t take enough photos. Then I realized I was so enthralled by everything I was seeing, my camera became just another piece of gear to me and I just began looking around. I can truly say I don’t regret not taking a thousand photos, because what I observed could never be duplicated in the artificial sense. There was a feeling of solace, as I hovered over the massive resting area to so many Japanese who lost their lives that day in 1944, as everything moved so gracefully with the gentle current. It almost felt surreal, as we slowly moved over and around the vessel. One of the most exciting things for me to see were the clown fish, as they intimately made their way through the carpet like sized sea anemones. Having owned a salt water fish tank, and observing their behavior in captivity, could not remotely compare to what I witnessed during this magnificent experience. Now I’m sure many are thinking, I traveled all this way to dive some of the most desired wrecks in the world and I’m talking about clown fish. Well yes, I was enthralled by them and part of the reason why, was because the ships I was diving were so large, it was hard to actually tell it was a ship until you started to move around inside the massive holds below, as that was when the ships actually came to life. Everything was so magnificently preserved despite lying on the bottom of the lagoon for some 68 years. Even though this was the final resting place for so many who lost their lives that day, it almost appeared to come alive before me as I gently glided through the engine rooms, the kitchens, the bath areas.

Every direction I turned there was a piece of life before me, whether it be a telephone, sake bottles, gas masks, shoes, rifles, medicine bottles or ammo. There was a sense of life around every corner and this feeling remained the same no matter what wreck we were diving for the day, whether it be Yamagiri, or the Unkai, or the Gosei, or the Rio de Janero, or the Hoki, or the Fugikawa, or the Nippo, or even the Heian, the feeling always remained the same. Where life had once capitulated, now, had blossomed into something so beautiful it would take most peoples’ breath away. These superstructures, which floated upon the surface, had come to their final resting places deep below the great big blue and to see history right before my very eyes is something I will never forget.

I will go back again someday, and I will dive the San Francisco, which lies between 165 and 210 fsw. Thank you to everyone I shared this experience with and to everyone who made this journey rememberable for me. "

Thanks for sharing Lisa!